One of the most interesting elements of our trip has been our visits to ancient places, often temples and spiritual centres that were built over 1000 years ago. I am not a particularly religious or spiritual person but I have found these destinations fascinating. I find myself imagining the original inhabitants devoting themselves to the construction of these intricate buildings and complexes in the midst of what would have been wild and virtually unreachable places. Much like Canada’s indigenous peoples, I am awestruck by the grit, strength, commitment and survival skills that humanity once maintained as compared to our incredibly cushy lives!
Evan and I were lucky to visit Koyasan about 10 days ago. It is a plateau situated about 2 hours south of Osaka in Wakayama and it is surrounded by 8 mountain peaks. The 8 peaks are significant as the lotus flower has 8 petals and the seated Buddha is usually pictured on top of a lotus flower. To reach Koya, you take a train to Gokurakubashi and then a steep cable car up the mountain. When we arrived at the cable car station we were excited to see that a new cable car had just been installed one month prior. There were lots of banners celebrating the new vehicle and it made our steep climb a little less nerve wrecking. As an added bonus there was a promotion to collect stamps at important sights around Koya and then hand in your stamp passport for a collectible pin, naturally a fun perk for Evan and a great souvenir for me to bring Denise.
A little reading on Koyasan will tell you that Kobo Daishi, the founder of the Shingon Sect of Esoteric Buddhism in Japan, chose this place for the first temple in the 9th century when he threw a dagger/fork from China where he was studying and it landed here. If you don’t go for fantastical legends, it is also pretty easy to see why Kobo Daishi chose such a serene and beautiful spot. Today Koyasan is the centre of Japanese Buddhism with more than 110 temples and this cemetery, Okuno-in, at the eastern end surrounded by tall cedars. There are over 200 000 tombs here, some that date back over 1000 years, and their moss covered stones blend into the natural environment. Important Japanese Buddhists have their remains or a piece of their remains (a lock of hair) buried here, as it is said to the be the place where the Buddha of the future will come to Earth. The 2km through Okuno-in to Kobo Daishi’s mausoleum is a spectacular walk. Many pilgrims take this route as it is considered the most holy place in Japan. They offer meals to Kobo Daishi daily and leave them on the steps to his shrine. And if you do like fantastical legends, it is said that Kobo Daishi is not dead but has simply been meditating in his tomb for 1200 years waiting for the arrival of the Future Buddha when Daishi will awake and interpret the heavenly message!
After our visit to Okuno-in, Evan and I took the bus to the town centre of Koyasan and entered the Kongobu-ji temple complex. This is the headquarters of Shingon Buddhism today and while the temple itself was impressive, Evan and I loved the Banyutei Rock Garden on the temple grounds most. It is Japan’s largest and has 140 granite stones that are arranged to represent two dragon protectors rising out of a sea of clouds. It is a beautiful spot to sit and reflect and in fact we saw a monk doing just that as we passed by.
On our walk to the next temple complex, we passed by another unique sight- a Japanese gas station. This has nothing to do with Kobo Daishi or the spiritual way but who knew that gas pumps could be suspended from the ceiling? We witnessed a driver or two pulling them down to fill up and smiled to ourselves as Japan is full of unexpected quirks like this.
At the next complex, Garan, we particularly enjoyed visiting Konpon Daito – a massive, bright orange pagoda. No photographs were allowed inside but it housed yet another impressive Buddha and intricately painted wooden pillars that were originally done by Kobo Daishi but have been repainted over the years.
Finally our stroll took us to the western end of Koya. Here stands the 25m high Dai-mon Gate marking the entrance to Koyasan. The current version of this gate is surrounded by towering trees and was re-built in 1705. It seems that many of these immense wooden temples, pagodas and gates have been destroyed by fire and repeatedly re-built over the centuries in the image of the previous structure thus history is kept alive.
To the left of the gate, stood the women’s entrance to Koya. Until the late 1800s women were not permitted to enter the temple grounds. I am not always as awe inspired by the historical attitudes toward women as I am by the ancient architecture. These orange torii mark the path around Koya that women were required to walk to reach Nyorindo (the women’s worship hall) and it was about 2 km long. I convinced Evan to begin the walk with me but at the end of a long day we ended up doubling back to take the bus to the cable car and begin our journey home.
A few days later the whole family headed out for a day at Miyajima Island, just a short train and ferry ride from Hiroshima. It is famed for the imposing orange torii (gate from the human to spiritual world) that marks the entrance to the Itsukushima-jinja temple. We read that the torii appear to be floating at high tide, but they looked pretty settled to us. Nevertheless the structure’s size and history made it a sight to see. It stands almost 17m tall with massive tree trunk pillars.
We quickly made our way through the busy tourist streets to the entrance of the Misen Ropeway. This trip consisted of two consecutive cable car rides that take you close to the summit of Mount Misen. We bought one way tickets as we had read that the walk down was less taxing than the walk up and was a great way to spend an afternoon.
At the top of the ropeway we picnic-ed and took in some vast views of the Seto Inland Sea. We were able to look back to Hiroshima and the many islands around it. The scenery reminded us of the Gulf Islands and felt a little like home.
Thirty minutes later and just as the observation deck was closing, we made it to the top of Mount Misen 535m above sea level. The 360 views from the summit were worth the hike and a lone cherry blossom tree completed the iconic Japanese panorama. After drinking this is, we began our descent. Although I was the one who pushed us to hike, I was also probably the one who suffered the most from our 2 hour downhill trek (I guess 40 + year old knees may prefer climbing up than down!).
We passed a few others on the path but had it mostly to ourselves as the sun sank lower in the sky. Just before we reached town, we passed Daisho-in, a temple where Kobo Daishi is believed to have meditated for 100 days when he returned from China before founding the temples at Mount Koya. It was neat for Evan and I to see another location attributed to this Buddhist scholar and the setting rivalled Okuno-in for serenity. Maybe we aren’t the spiritual devotees Kobo Daishi clearly was, but we appreciated his choice of zen settings.
Back at ground level, the sun was setting and we were able to walk right up to the orange torii and appreciate the grand structure up close. A spectacular close to yet another scenic day. Being able to wander on some of the paths that have been travelled for years by those seeking calm and guidance, we count ourselves very lucky indeed.
